How to Install a Fire Alarm System Step by Step

Installing a fire alarm system means assessing the building, choosing the right alarms, placing them where they will actually detect smoke or heat, mounting the devices, wiring or linking them, configuring the panel, and then testing everything before it goes into normal use. Battery-powered residential smoke alarms can suit some do-it-yourself situations, while commercial fire alarm systems typically require professional design, installation, testing and commissioning. The work ranges from a simple swap of a few battery alarms to a multi-stage project with a control panel, wiring and formal sign-off.

• Smoke alarms or detectors that carry the label of a recognised testing laboratory
• A mix of alarm types: ionization alarms (generally more responsive to flaming fires), photoelectric alarms (generally more responsive to smouldering fires), or dual-sensor alarms that contain both
• Interconnected alarms from the same manufacturer if you want them to sound together
• Manufacturer's instructions, kept for reference
• A qualified electrician if the alarms are hardwired into your home's electrical system
• A qualified professional for commercial system design, installation, testing and commissioning
• Your local fire department's non-emergency phone number, if you want to ask about reduced-price or free alarms
• Your local fire marshal's office, to check whether your city, county or state requires a specific type of alarm

1. Assess the building. Look at its layout, occupancy, size, fire risks, existing fire protection equipment and the requirements that apply to it. This tells you what type of system and devices are appropriate.
2. Choose the alarm type. For the best protection, use both ionization and photoelectric alarms, or dual-sensor alarms that contain both sensors.
3. Decide between battery and hardwired power. Battery alarms run on a disposable 9-volt battery or a non-replaceable 10-year lithium-ion battery. Hardwired alarms get power from your home's electrical system and usually have a backup battery that needs replacing once a year. Only qualified electricians should install hardwired smoke alarms.
4. Plan where each alarm goes. Install smoke alarms inside each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level of the home, including the basement. On levels without bedrooms, install alarms in the living room (or den or family room) or near the stairway to the upper level, or in both locations.
5. Place basement alarms correctly. In the basement, install the alarm on the ceiling at the bottom of the stairs leading to the next level.
6. Mount alarms high. Smoke rises, so mount alarms on the ceiling or high on the wall. Wall-mounted alarms should be no more than 12 inches from the ceiling to the top of the alarm.
7. Handle pitched ceilings. If your ceilings are pitched, install the alarm within 3 feet of the peak but not within the apex of the peak, about 4 inches down from the peak.
8. Keep alarms away from trouble spots. Do not install smoke alarms near windows, doors or ducts where drafts might interfere with their operation. Keep them at least 10 feet (3 metres) from a cooking appliance to reduce false alarms when cooking.
9. Never paint an alarm. Paint, stickers or other decorations could stop the alarm working.
10. Interconnect the alarms for the best protection. When one alarm sounds, they all sound. Interconnection can be done using hard-wiring or wireless technology, and all interconnected alarms must be from the same manufacturer, because incompatible alarms may not sound.
11. Install the devices securely. Depending on the system, this may include smoke detectors, heat detectors, manual pull stations, horns, strobes, combination horn/strobe devices and other detection and notification equipment.
12. Install the control panel. The panel is the central component of many systems: it receives signals from connected devices and controls or communicates alarm conditions. Put it in an appropriate accessible location and connect it according to the system design and the manufacturer's requirements.
13. Complete the wiring. Fire alarm wiring connects devices to the control panel and, depending on the system, connects different circuits and components. Wiring must be installed and connected correctly to help prevent faults, communication problems and system malfunctions. Electrical and fire alarm wiring should be completed by appropriately qualified professionals where required.
14. Configure the system. This can include identifying devices, setting system functions, configuring notification devices and connecting monitoring equipment where applicable.
15. Test the system. Depending on the system, testing may cover smoke detectors, heat detectors, manual pull stations, notification appliances, control panel functions, backup batteries, fault conditions and monitoring communication.
16. Complete inspection, testing, documentation and commissioning before the system is placed into normal operation. Commercial installations may involve additional requirements depending on the building, jurisdiction, system design and applicable codes and standards.

• Smoke alarms do not last forever. Replace them 10 years from the manufacture date. Alarms with non-replaceable 10-year batteries are designed to remain effective for up to 10 years, and if the alarm chirps to warn of a low battery, replace the entire alarm right away.
• Alarms with any other type of battery need a new battery at least once a year. If the alarm chirps, replace the battery right away, using the batteries listed on the back of the alarm or in the manufacturer's instructions. The alarm may not work properly with a different kind of battery.
• Test smoke alarms at least once a month using the test button, and make sure everyone in the home knows the sound and how to respond.
• Never take the battery out while cooking. If an alarm sounds from cooking or shower steam, open a window or door and press the hush button, wave a towel to clear the air, or move the alarm several feet away from the kitchen or bathroom. Disabling an alarm or removing the battery can be a deadly mistake.
• Costs vary. As examples, ionization and photoelectric alarms start around $6, dual-sensor alarms around $24, alarms with a microprocessor around $30, and radio frequency or wireless alarms around $40. Some fire departments offer reduced-price or free smoke alarms.
• Improper installation can cause delayed detection, frequent nuisance alarms, poor coverage, and battery or wiring issues.

How many smoke alarms do I need? At a minimum, install them inside every sleep room, outside each sleeping area and on every level of the home, including the basement. Larger homes need additional alarms.

Should I choose ionization or photoelectric alarms? Ionization alarms are generally more responsive to flaming fires and photoelectric alarms to smouldering fires. Because you cannot predict which type of fire might start, use both types or dual-sensor alarms.

Can I install hardwired alarms myself? Only qualified electricians should install hardwired smoke alarms. Battery-powered residential alarms may suit some do-it-yourself situations.

Why do my interconnected alarms need to be the same brand? If the alarms are not compatible, they may not sound when one of them activates. All interconnected alarms should come from the same manufacturer.

How often should I test and replace my alarms? Test at least once a month using the test button. Replace 9-volt batteries at least once a year, replace the backup battery in hardwired alarms at least once a year, and replace the whole alarm every 10 years.